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My first taste of real southern food.


The National Ethnic Media Expo is over. My company (Inquirer.net) won best media kit. I met some talented journalists outside of California and re-united with my journalism professor. Now it's time to put the business cards away and enjoy some real fried chicken from Atlanta!

On my last night in Atlanta, I went to Mary Mac’s Tea Room in midtown for dinner. Political dignitaries and celebrities (President Bill Clinton and actor Richard Gere) have frequented this 60+ year old landmark. I’ve eaten at so called soul food joints in San Francisco, of various price levels, even the ones that get rave reviews but I was never impressed. Either the chicken was too greasy, overcooked, or bland, or the heavy breading/crust was too hard or dense.

The first thing that caught my attention of Mary Mac’s was the wall to wall framed photographs, black/ white, and colored. It looked like a museum full of history of the popular faces that dined at this very simple and hospitable restaurant.

Within a minute of being seated, the waitress asked me if I had been there before. I probably looked obvious since my eyes popped at the long list of dishes, many that were new to this California girl: green fried tomatoes, pot likker with crackln’ bread and cream corn dumplings.

My head exploded from the abundant choices. I wanted to sample everything. But I stayed focused. I ordered four pieces of fried chicken with coleslaw and sweet potatoes, their famous sweet iced tea and a peach cobbler to go. Instead of the waitress writing my order down, I filled out a simple form of my choices.

The iced tea I’ve had before was always too sweet (always needed a glass of water to dilute the sugar) and had that tannin taste, unlike this tea. Yum. Then another surprise: three different types of homemade warm bread: sticky cinnamon roll (more cinnamon taste than sugar), corn bread and a dinner roll. I usually don’t load on complimentary bread but I went to town that evening.

The waitress then served another complimentary Mary Mac specialty, a bowl of warm Likker with crackln’ bread. Likker is the broth of boiled collard greens and crackln’ bread is just a toastier, denser, less sweet version of cornbread. God help me. I was already 1/3 full before my meal!

Ten minutes after being seated, my love arrived. My knife easily sliced into the light and crispy crust and the juicy white and tender meat of heaven. Yes juices! The pieces were not over breaded like Popeye’s, where you discover the actual chicken has shrunken after its batter armor is chipped away, and the seasoning wasn’t too salty or spicy like KFC’s (I’m not ashamed to like KFC) . You can tell it was fried in fresh quality oil since the the chicken and it's coating wasn’t greasy. Mmmm x 2.

The waitress asked how I was doing. “This is awesome”, I replied with my eyes half closed. She smiled.

The sides were excellent too. The coleslaw was NOT sweet, salty, milky or soggy. It had enough firmness and just enough seasoning. The corn bread was mildly sweet with soft insides and a light toasty crust. A slick of melted marshmallows lightly coated the lumpy, slightly mashed sweet potatoes.

"Ommmmm”. I had reached nirvana. I was into my non-guilty, calorie packed pleasures, the waitress returned and asked if everything was all right.

I probably had a silly look on my face, when I told her slowly, “I’m ... in.... heaven”. She laughed.

I was full but forced more food down my throat because I didn’t want the flavors to end, flavors that didn’t shock my wallet. My bill was only $18 and some change. I took the huge leftovers to my hotel which tasted just as good the next day. Thank goodness my hotel had a fridge and a nuke box.

I stepped out of Mary Macs rubbing my over satisfied bulging belly. The restaurant welcomed and spoiled me. My eyes have been opened. My taste buds will never greet KFC the same way again. If I ever return to Atlanta, I’ll be at Mary Macs with an order of fried chicken AND their fried Catfish, collard greens and fried green tomatoes. My southern appetite now has high aspirations.

Thank you Mary Macs!



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